Signature reader Deborah Ivison dives into the tropical charms of Orpheus Island Lodge and instantly becomes mesmerised under its spell.
Jaded with work deadlines and school runs, my worries receded instantly as the helicopter touched down on Orpheus Island. A short flight from Townsville after a three-hour flight from Sydney. We left our Eastern suburbs home at 6.30 am Sydney time, and by 2 pm, our feet padded onto the waters hugged by fine white sands. Set amongst the azure waters linked to the Great Barrier Reef, Orpheus is an island gem edged with sandy beaches and fringed by coral reefs.
Instantly on ‘island time’
It was only Tuesday afternoon, but already I was on ‘island time’. Once we landed, and after the helicopter blades stopped, we stepped out onto the beach where our resort host greeted us warmly, “Welcome to Orpheus Island!” she beamed. We followed her along the boardwalk between lush manicured lawns with a pristine beach set against a sparkling ocean stretching beyond the horizon. The resort reception is a beautiful dark timber pavilion with plush sofas overlooking the beachfront infinity pool. We were handed a glass of Champagne and sank into the soft cushions of the sofa as we chattered with the resort staff to hear more about our stay.
Part of the Palm Island Group, Orpheus Island Lodge is utterly picturesque. A jewel in the island crown of this part of Queensland’s tropical north, Orpheus stretches 11km long and almost 1km wide. A mix of volcanic rock with lush vegetation and a fringing coral reef. Tourists began arriving here in the 1930s, attracted by its natural beauty. In 1960 it was declared a national park, and since 1987, it has been home to James Cook University’s Marine Research Station.
Blissful beach bungalows
Our chic beach bungalow was in a prime position. Nestled in a well-kept garden with views stretching across the vivid green grass and over to the picturesque beach where two hammocks swung gently in the breeze. We kicked off our shoes and cracked open the complimentary bottle of Piper Heidsieck Champagne. Which was accompanied by a personalised welcome card and a delicious platter of cheese, fruit and gourmet crackers.
Orpheus is home to an array of birds, sea and animal life, some of whom we had the good fortune to meet during our stay. On checking into our bungalow, a skinny green grass snake slithered out of our way as we stepped onto the deck. At dinner that night in the restaurant, I saw an unmistakable black fin slicing through the water across the bay, cutting close to the shore. We later had the thrill of witnessing it was circling to feed on the fish at the end of the jetty as soft moonlight shimmered over the water. The next day, buoyed by the knowledge that these black tip reef sharks are harmless, I hoped to see one up close on our snorkelling trip.
Outdoor adventures at Orpheus Island Lodge
Orpheus Island Lodge is a fully inclusive resort. There are motor boats, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards to Hobie-cats. Plus, daily guided activities from wine and whisky tasting to yoga, bush walks and snorkel tours.
We tried the Hobie-Cat first. It was such fun to see how fast we could go and to feel the water splash through the nets as we sped along. As the wind picked up, and we headed to the next bay and explored its secluded beach.
Low tide is the perfect time for stand-up paddle boarding, as the water was so flat and calm; it felt peaceful as the afternoon heat slipped gently as the light softened. I spotted little bait fish, a few brightly coloured parrot fish, and plenty of sting rays.
Our snorkel tour the next day took us to neighbouring Cattle Bay. The lushness and colour of the coral were a delight. From stunning staghorn, large plates, beautiful boulders and the most incredible garden of soft corals to swim through. One of the highlights was a huge underwater clam whose interior was undulated and shone like a polished precious pearl. We spotted a dazzling array of colourful fish. From Parrot, Angel and some of the biggest Damsel Fish I had ever seen.
Dinner delights
Back on dry land, I headed to the spa for a fabulous all-over body massage, scrub and facial. Worry lines were smoothed away, dry skin softened, and muscles relaxed. Afterwards, I floated back to my room in a cloud of aromatic oils. Sinking back onto the soft king bed, I slipped into a deliciously indulgent post-spa slumber. Then it was time to get dressed and ready for dinner.
Eating at Orpheus Island Lodge was one of the most pleasurable dining experiences I’ve ever encountered. At the kitchen helm is Executive Chef Paul Wilson. Who, after working here for just six months, earned Orpheus Island Lodge its first Chef’s Hat in 2019. He boasts a background in fine dining at one- and three-hatted restaurants in addition to an impressive collection of five-star island resorts. And as Sous Chef at three Michelin-starred Geranium in Denmark – currently ranked number one in the World’s Best Restaurant list.
We were treated to our own personalised dinner menu that accommodate our dietary requirements and tastes. Harvey Bay Scallops drizzled with a citrus lime peanut sauce, a smack of chilli and a refreshing kiss of cucumber. Then a bowl of plump gnocchi mingled with a medley of mushrooms, interlaced with chicken butter. The sour-dough bread was a stand-out as its made fresh every day.
Every mealtime was an adventure, a treasure trove of marvellous mouthfuls—a harmony of textures and flavours. Three meals are available daily, with a lunch theme for different international cuisines. I usually don’t eat desserts, but I relished every one. Including the Tiramisu I devoured as the helicopter hovered nearby as a note it’s time to head home.
The verdict
As the helicopter lifted to fly us back to Townsville, the resort staff lined the beach to wave goodbye. Orpheus Island Lodge, you were beyond dreamy. The most delightful and indulgent way to spend four days retreating, resting and dining.
This article is a Signature Luxury Travel & Style Reader Story submission. Be the first to see more exclusive online content by subscribing to the enewsletter.
